Celtic Dress

     Another adventure in traditional bottom weights, this heavy wool, used as a top weight and traditional top weights, this light flannel, as a bottom weight. The wool is from a pair of capris that didn't fit and the flannel I found for $1.40 a yard...what a steal! Oh, and check out my new Born shoes, they cost 10 times more than my entire outfit X_X. My dad did always say to spend the most on shoes and a mattress because you spend half your life in one or the other.

    

    

    I used the book "Little Green Dresses" by Tina Sparkles to make the bodice slopers for this dress. This is a basic neckline that I alter for each style. I find that cutting out the dart makes it super quick and simple for marking.

   The darts are always the first item up for sewing and I press them towards the center. For this dress, since I planned on a modified shirt-dress style, I cut out a left and right bodice and added extra seam allowance in the center.

   The strips for the button facing are 2 1/2 inches wide and to make for easy turning I didn't interface the seam allowance.

   With right sides together I sewed a 1/4 inch seam allowance and pressed open turning the seam allowance into the button placket.

   Lining up the dart placement where I would like them to sit on on my bust I pin the right bodice piece to my bra and tape off where I desire the new neckline to be. This probably isn't the most orthodox way of altering a neckline but I find it simple and a good way to make sure your bra straps won't be exposed.

   With right sides together I stitch the lining to the bodice with a 1/4 inch seam allowance then press open.

   I press and pin the button placket in place to prepare for the lining.

   The placket is edge stitched- a scant 1/8 inch with black embroidery thread.

    I lined up the button plackets to make an even "v" at the opening then zig-zagged the bottom 1/8 inch. The zig-zagging stopped the two bodice pieces from shifting once the placket was aligned.

   I made five button holes with black embroidery thread 2 inches apart from the center of each button. My machine has a automatic button foot which makes very easy, quick work of button holes. To be sure on the placement I made a test button hole on a scrap piece of fabric and measured it from end to end, then factored that into my button placement.

    I then used a crow's foot stitch to hand sew on the buttons. I prefer to do this on my thigh, vs. a flat surface. I feel this helps eliminate that weird pulling or pocketing that can occur in the fabric between buttons.

    This sloper for the back bodice also has a basic neck line that I alter with the same technique as previously described for the front.

    With right sides together I sewed the lining to the bodice, pressed open and edge stitched in place. I was debating understiching instead of edge stitching but I thought the ruggedness of the edge stitch would be a good fit for this heavy wool.

    I zig-zagged a 1/8 inch seam allowance. I find that zig-zagging each piece prior to stitching together is not only easier but especially important when working with wool which likes to lose it's shape.

    With right sides together I basted the left and right back bodice pieces together. The basting makes easy work of putting in the zipper but I do back stitch at the ends so they don't pull apart while I am attaching the bodice to the skirt.

   Instead of leaving the raw edges of the top pieces of the bodice exposed I press the lining under on the front bodice then slip stitch in place.

Completed bodice back view

Completed bodice front view