Celtic Dress
Another adventure in traditional bottom weights, this heavy wool, used as a top weight and traditional top weights, this light flannel, as a bottom weight. The wool is from a pair of capris that didn't fit and the flannel I found for $1.40 a yard...what a steal! Oh, and check out my new Born shoes, they cost 10 times more than my entire outfit X_X. My dad did always say to spend the most on shoes and a mattress because you spend half your life in one or the other.
I used the book "Little Green Dresses" by Tina Sparkles to make the bodice slopers for this dress. This is a basic neckline that I alter for each style. I find that cutting out the dart makes it super quick and simple for marking.
The darts are always the first item up for sewing and I press them towards the center. For this dress, since I planned on a modified shirt-dress style, I cut out a left and right bodice and added extra seam allowance in the center.
The strips for the button facing are 2 1/2 inches wide and to make for easy turning I didn't interface the seam allowance.
With right sides together I sewed a 1/4 inch seam allowance and pressed open turning the seam allowance into the button placket.
Lining up the dart placement where I would like them to sit on on my bust I pin the right bodice piece to my bra and tape off where I desire the new neckline to be. This probably isn't the most orthodox way of altering a neckline but I find it simple and a good way to make sure your bra straps won't be exposed.
With right sides together I stitch the lining to the bodice with a 1/4 inch seam allowance then press open.
I press and pin the button placket in place to prepare for the lining.
The placket is edge stitched- a scant 1/8 inch with black embroidery thread.
I lined up the button plackets to make an even "v" at the opening then zig-zagged the bottom 1/8 inch. The zig-zagging stopped the two bodice pieces from shifting once the placket was aligned.
I made five button holes with black embroidery thread 2 inches apart from the center of each button. My machine has a automatic button foot which makes very easy, quick work of button holes. To be sure on the placement I made a test button hole on a scrap piece of fabric and measured it from end to end, then factored that into my button placement.
I then used a crow's foot stitch to hand sew on the buttons. I prefer to do this on my thigh, vs. a flat surface. I feel this helps eliminate that weird pulling or pocketing that can occur in the fabric between buttons.
This sloper for the back bodice also has a basic neck line that I alter with the same technique as previously described for the front.
With right sides together I sewed the lining to the bodice, pressed open and edge stitched in place. I was debating understiching instead of edge stitching but I thought the ruggedness of the edge stitch would be a good fit for this heavy wool.
I zig-zagged a 1/8 inch seam allowance. I find that zig-zagging each piece prior to stitching together is not only easier but especially important when working with wool which likes to lose it's shape.
With right sides together I basted the left and right back bodice pieces together. The basting makes easy work of putting in the zipper but I do back stitch at the ends so they don't pull apart while I am attaching the bodice to the skirt.
Instead of leaving the raw edges of the top pieces of the bodice exposed I press the lining under on the front bodice then slip stitch in place.
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| Completed bodice back view |
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| Completed bodice front view |
I use poster board or cardboard for all my slopers, not newspaper since I am quite rough with my stuff :)
This is a very crucial step for the zipper to be lined up with the center opening properly. This junction, where the bodice and skirt are attached I always save for last when sewing in the zipper since it is easy to make the seam allowance exposed when unbasting the center seam. I skip over it completely, both when sewing the zipper into the seam allowance and top stitching. That way when I pull the basting threads I can be sure to press the seam allowance nicely then top stitch the zipper in place.
Entire center back seam pressed open for zipper placement.
I pin the zipper only to the seam allowance then stitch with a zipper foot fairly close to the zipper. This assures proper placement when it is ready to be top stitched.
This portion is also very crucial. The center seam and zipper teeth should be lined up perpendicularity.
Zipper fully pinned in place and ready to sew in seam allowance.
Notice all it top stitched except for the bodice/skirt junction and the top of the bodice where the zipper pull is. The next step is to pull the basting threads so I can open the zipper.
The basting stitches have been pulled and and the zipper opened so the seam allowance is pressed and ready to be top stitched.
Finished zipper, just mildly wonky at the skirt/bodice junction.
Right sides together I stitch a 1/4 inch seam allowance that is pressed toward the cuff. Now that I am making dresses with long sleeves I have to start buying fabric in four yard increments. Three yard is not enough for a full length sleeve.
Cuff edge stitched with black embroidery thread. I will trim the excess after stitching the sleeve closed.
Cuff sewn together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, zig-zagged and pressed open.
With right sides together I stitched the sleeve to the arm hole using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. This flannel has a nice stretch to is so easing the sleeve cap was simple.
I pressed the hem then rolled the raw edges in on my machine. I prefer this instead of pressing twice and pinning. It's quicker and allows for a smooth rounded hem.
The finished product on my dress makers doll.
The End.
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